The Culture in St. Thomas is born of an intense and wild history. And when things got crazy on St. Thomas, the effects on its people were magnified because of the small size of the island. Not only is St. Thomas a smaller island, but 80% of the population live on less than 50% of the island. It can be said that when someone on the island sneezes, everyone calls in sick the next day.
(Quick note and disclaimer: I am just a poor boy and my story’s seldom told…
I was not born in St. Thomas. These are just one man’s observations of the people and traditions of the island. The island peoples are incredibly diverse. Like all of Earth’s people, everyone walks their own path in life. So when I give a generalization it isn’t always applicable to all islanders. Now, disclaimer given, let’s get moving and talk some culture!)
St. Thomas culture is thriving and pronounced in a few obvious areas.
And they are…
1. Language
Throughout the Caribbean you’ll notice the accents (some people get offended by the term “accent” so please insert “dialect” or “patois” if you prefer) of the local population. To most state-side English speakers all the island accents are the same. But the accents of each island have subtle and not-so-subtle differences in their sound, cadence, and vocabulary.
And St. Thomas has a style all its own. When you meet most West Indian people they will talk to you in a relatively decipherable accent. But if they are talking among themselves, don’t be surprised if you don’t understand even half of what is said.
Many of the terms and syntax are not what you’d call “proper” English. My kids go to a local school and their classmates are West Indian and I can attest that in the classroom they learn the “Queen’s English”. And yet, in practice almost every St. Thomian speaks in their “Island English”.
My grandmother would be rolling over in her grave at their grammar. But it is part of the charm and beauty of the island. I find it difficult at times correcting my kids when they are speaking proper “Island-Speak” but awful grammatical speech. I guess it’s good they can go either way.
2. Food
I’ve written previously about many of the local foods in St. Thomas. Local food here is different. I doubt you’ll find any authentic St. Thomian food where you live in the states. And even in St. Thomas, you won’t find it in its purest form at most restaurants that serve/cater to tourists. If you want a food tour with authentic, local food we have a tour for that – The Only Local Food, Bars and Culture Tour. But you probably won’t love the food. Not because it is bad. But because you won’t be used to it.
How does sea urchin sound? What about welks (sea snail)? The more accessible foods are pates, roti, oxtail and johnny cakes. You’ll find these at many roadside food stands and trucks. The sea around St. Thomas, along with the plants and animals on land, developed and guided the diet of the islanders.
I should also mention that in St. Thomas they love to stew things. And fry things. Some of the foods are wonderfully simple. Others are mind numbingly complex. But don’t be deterred, go all-in and order that weird, root-vegetable and boiled fish entree. Enjoy eating it out of a Styrofoam box and bath in the culture of St. Thomas.
3. Music
Soca, Calypso and Reggae are the musical genres found throughout the Caribbean. But unique to St. Thomas is Quelbe music.
Over the last 20 years, Soca has largely dominated the music scene. Soca is the dominant music played at Carnival and by locals. Hear some bass booming from a nearby car, they are probably blasting Soca.
Reggaeton is big too with the influx of folks from Santo Domingo, Dominican Republic and Puerto Rico. Reggaeton strattles the lines between reggae, soca and rap.
But just about anyone over 40 will have strong ties to Calypso and Roots Reggae. And if you are a tad bit older, you’ll also remember fondly Scratch Band or Quelbe music. You’ll be hard pressed to hear anyone playing Quelbe but most old timers can either sing you a tune or dust off an old record for you. You can also search Youtube and find Quelbe.
4. Values
In one word: Matriarchal. The women in St. Thomas rule the roost. Grandma’s and Aunties are incredibly influential and instrumental in the lives of St. Thomian children. The older generation is often the primary caregiver raising the island’s youth.
Both conservative and not. Marriage is not common here. Men and women tend to be more fluid in their relationships. More so than in other cultures. If you add to that fact that St. Thomas is a small island, it can make for some interesting situations. Let me explain.
I was sitting with a group of West Indians (maybe 5 or 6 of them) and they were talking about how you have to be careful about who you are going to get intimate with. Like when you are at a party and dancing good with somebody, before you take things to the next level, you have to ask “the question”. The question is about who each of your grandparents are. Cuz if you have the same grandparents, the party is over. 🙂
Another notable attribute of native Virgin Islanders is their intense pride. They are a proud people. By that I mean they take insults or slights (real or perceived) very hard and personally. They will stand up for themselves and go down hard if they have to. Your reputation on a small island is crucial. In a tight community your role and good name are tantamount. It is both a blessing and a curse.
Christianity, and its strong moral requirements, are deeply held in much of the community. There are a churches in every language and size on every street corner. In downtown Charlotte Amalie the churches can look like a house or small outbuilding. But on Sunday mornings they spring to life. Moravians and Lutherans b/c of history.
5. Traditions/Customs
Talk about a study in contrasts. Many locals are a reserved and quiet bunch. But put them in a group of close friends or contradict them and they get a bit animated.
It can be a bit off putting when you see two West Indians seemingly yelling at each other in public. Sometimes it can take a minute to figure out if they are mad at each other or the best of friends having some fun.
“Good morning.” “Good afternoon.” “Good night.”
These are the holy trinity of St. Thomas manners. Saying “Good afternoon” when entering a room
Holidays – visiting homes. Going home to home grabbing food. If you are ever at a pot luck dinner, you better fill your plate up fast. I learned this the hard way during my first Thanksgiving on island. At a work function I arrived about 30 minutes late to the luncheon. Most of the food was gone.
For a West Indian it is custom to first fill up a plate of food and cover it with foil for “later”. And then you go back and fill up another plate of food for eating now.
Carnival is St. Thomas Culture on display. If you look beyond the glittering lights, rides and carnival food, you’ll find the best of island life. The food shacks surrounding the Carnival Village, the music variety and all the people of the island coming together.
Jumbies and Obeah. Africans traveled from the West Coast of present day Ghana to St. Thomas in the late 1600s and into the early 1800s. Even though the enslaved peoples were exposed to European traditions and religion, many African customs survived.
6. Peoples
Frenchies are a really interesting group. Historically they are white Europeans. But by virtue of their parallel lives with enslaved and freed Africans, they have similar speech patterns to black West Indians. One of my first experiences with this was at Sib’s on the Mountain – a local bar. I was sitting next to a black West Indian and white Frenchie. Their speech was incomprensible.
Down-Islanders. Over the decades and centuries St. Thomas has attracted islanders from “down island”. Down island covers most of the islands that fall below St. Thomas – Dominica, Grenada, Martinique, St. Lucia, etc. They moved here for the opportunities and they brought their own customs and foods.
Bahn here. This is one of those seriously important details that most state-siders will never appreciate until they move to the island. There is a serious case of xenophobia (I use this term loosely and lightly) toward folks that weren’t born in St. Thomas.
Continentals. Both white and black people from the US that move to St. Thomas are referred to as “Continentals” (this term isn’t used as much now, but when I moved here I was called a “Continental” and quite a few occasions).
Africans.
It is safe to say the largest bloc of new immigrants (both legal and illegal) are from Haiti and Dominican Republic. Little Santo Domingo and Port-au-Prince are real here. In some sections of the island, Spanish and Haitian Creole are the main languages spoken.
[/et_pb_text][/et_pb_column][/et_pb_row][/et_pb_section]The Culture in St. Thomas is born of an intense and wild history. And when things got crazy on St. Thomas, the effects on its people were magnified because of the small size of the island. Not only is St. Thomas a smaller island, but 80% of the population live on less than 50% of the island. It can be said that when someone on the island sneezes, everyone calls in sick the next day.
(Quick note and disclaimer: I am just a poor boy and my story’s seldom told…
I was not born in St. Thomas. These are just one man’s observations of the people and traditions of the island. The island peoples are incredibly diverse. Like all of Earth’s people, everyone walks their own path in life. So when I give a generalization it isn’t always applicable to all islanders. Now, disclaimer given, let’s get moving and talk some culture!)
St. Thomas culture is thriving and pronounced in a few obvious areas.
And they are…
1. Language
Throughout the Caribbean you’ll notice the accents (some people get offended by the term “accent” so please insert “dialect” or “patois” if you prefer) of the local population. To most state-side English speakers all the island accents are the same. But the accents of each island have subtle and not-so-subtle differences in their sound, cadence, and vocabulary.
And St. Thomas has a style all its own. When you meet most West Indian people they will talk to you in a relatively decipherable accent. But if they are talking among themselves, don’t be surprised if you don’t understand even half of what is said.
Many of the terms and syntax are not what you’d call “proper” English. My kids go to a local school and their classmates are West Indian and I can attest that in the classroom they learn the “Queen’s English”. And yet, in practice almost every St. Thomian speaks in their “Island English”.
My grandmother would be rolling over in her grave at their grammar. But it is part of the charm and beauty of the island. I find it difficult at times correcting my kids when they are speaking proper “Island-Speak” but awful grammatical speech. I guess it’s good they can go either way.
2. Food
I’ve written previously about many of the local foods in St. Thomas. Local food here is different. I doubt you’ll find any authentic St. Thomian food where you live in the states. And even in St. Thomas, you won’t find it in its purest form at most restaurants that serve/cater to tourists. If you want a food tour with authentic, local food we have a tour for that – The Only Local Food, Bars and Culture Tour. But you probably won’t love the food. Not because it is bad. But because you won’t be used to it.
How does sea urchin sound? What about welks (sea snail)? The more accessible foods are pates, roti, oxtail and johnny cakes. You’ll find these at many roadside food stands and trucks. The sea around St. Thomas, along with the plants and animals on land, developed and guided the diet of the islanders.
I should also mention that in St. Thomas they love to stew things. And fry things. Some of the foods are wonderfully simple. Others are mind numbingly complex. But don’t be deterred, go all-in and order that weird, root-vegetable and boiled fish entree. Enjoy eating it out of a Styrofoam box and bath in the culture of St. Thomas.
3. Music
Soca, Calypso and Reggae are the musical genres found throughout the Caribbean. But unique to St. Thomas is Quelbe music.
Over the last 20 years, Soca has largely dominated the music scene. Soca is the dominant music played at Carnival and by locals. Hear some bass booming from a nearby car, they are probably blasting Soca.
Reggaeton is big too with the influx of folks from Santo Domingo, Dominican Republic and Puerto Rico. Reggaeton strattles the lines between reggae, soca and rap.
But just about anyone over 40 will have strong ties to Calypso and Roots Reggae. And if you are a tad bit older, you’ll also remember fondly Scratch Band or Quelbe music. You’ll be hard pressed to hear anyone playing Quelbe but most old timers can either sing you a tune or dust off an old record for you. You can also search Youtube and find Quelbe.
4. Values
In one word: Matriarchal. The women in St. Thomas rule the roost. Grandma’s and Aunties are incredibly influential and instrumental in the lives of St. Thomian children. The older generation is often the primary caregiver raising the island’s youth.
Both conservative and not. Marriage is not common here. Men and women tend to be more fluid in their relationships. More so than in other cultures. If you add to that fact that St. Thomas is a small island, it can make for some interesting situations. Let me explain.
I was sitting with a group of West Indians (maybe 5 or 6 of them) and they were talking about how you have to be careful about who you are going to get intimate with. Like when you are at a party and dancing good with somebody, before you take things to the next level, you have to ask “the question”. The question is about who each of your grandparents are. Cuz if you have the same grandparents, the party is over. 🙂
Another notable attribute of native Virgin Islanders is their intense pride. They are a proud people. By that I mean they take insults or slights (real or perceived) very hard and personally. They will stand up for themselves and go down hard if they have to. Your reputation on a small island is crucial. In a tight community your role and good name are tantamount. It is both a blessing and a curse.
Christianity, and its strong moral requirements, are deeply held in much of the community. There are a churches in every language and size on every street corner. In downtown Charlotte Amalie the churches can look like a house or small outbuilding. But on Sunday mornings they spring to life. Moravians and Lutherans b/c of history.
5. Traditions/Customs
Talk about a study in contrasts. Many locals are a reserved and quiet bunch. But put them in a group of close friends or contradict them and they get a bit animated.
It can be a bit off putting when you see two West Indians seemingly yelling at each other in public. Sometimes it can take a minute to figure out if they are mad at each other or the best of friends having some fun.
“Good morning.” “Good afternoon.” “Good night.”
These are the holy trinity of St. Thomas manners. Saying “Good afternoon” when entering a room
Holidays – visiting homes. Going home to home grabbing food. If you are ever at a pot luck dinner, you better fill your plate up fast. I learned this the hard way during my first Thanksgiving on island. At a work function I arrived about 30 minutes late to the luncheon. Most of the food was gone.
For a West Indian it is custom to first fill up a plate of food and cover it with foil for “later”. And then you go back and fill up another plate of food for eating now.
Carnival is St. Thomas Culture on display. If you look beyond the glittering lights, rides and carnival food, you’ll find the best of island life. The food shacks surrounding the Carnival Village, the music variety and all the people of the island coming together.
Jumbies and Obeah. Africans traveled from the West Coast of present day Ghana to St. Thomas in the late 1600s and into the early 1800s. Even though the enslaved peoples were exposed to European traditions and religion, many African customs survived.
6. Peoples
Frenchies are a really interesting group. Historically they are white Europeans. But by virtue of their parallel lives with enslaved and freed Africans, they have similar speech patterns to black West Indians. One of my first experiences with this was at Sib’s on the Mountain – a local bar. I was sitting next to a black West Indian and white Frenchie. Their speech was incomprensible.
Down-Islanders. Over the decades and centuries St. Thomas has attracted islanders from “down island”. Down island covers most of the islands that fall below St. Thomas – Dominica, Grenada, Martinique, St. Lucia, etc. They moved here for the opportunities and they brought their own customs and foods.
Bahn here. This is one of those seriously important details that most state-siders will never appreciate until they move to the island. There is a serious case of xenophobia (I use this term loosely and lightly) toward folks that weren’t born in St. Thomas.
Continentals. Both white and black people from the US that move to St. Thomas are referred to as “Continentals” (this term isn’t used as much now, but when I moved here I was called a “Continental” and quite a few occasions).
Africans.
It is safe to say the largest bloc of new immigrants (both legal and illegal) are from Haiti and Dominican Republic. Little Santo Domingo and Port-au-Prince are real here. In some sections of the island, Spanish and Haitian Creole are the main languages spoken.
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